Chef Moshe Basson of Eucalyptus was born in Iraq and immigrated to Israel when he was a baby. His childhood in Jerusalem’s Talpiot neighborhood is steeped in memories of pastries, wild herbs, and the traditional dishes his mother and grandmother prepared.
Every Jewish Iraqi family has its own version of this dish. Whether they call it ingriye or ingriyei, the foundation remains the same: a casserole of meat, eggplant, and tomatoes with a balance of sweet and sour flavors. Basson remembers the dish well from his mother’s kitchen.
“My mother made the classic version with lemon and sugar, but I prefer an upgraded take, using tamarind for depth and highlighting the striking contrast between white rice and the dark sauce. Though it may seem like a simple home-cooked dish, with few ingredients or spices, the way it is carefully layered — so that each element remains visible and distinct — adds both refinement and beauty,” he says.
Tamarind arrived in Iraq and the broader Middle East thousands of years ago, carried by camel caravans from India. To preserve it for the long journey — and to prevent importers from growing tamarind trees in their own lands — the fruit was packed by crushing it together with its seeds. When it reached the Land of Israel, its resemblance to moist dates in its packaging earned it the name “Hindi dates” or “Indian dates.”
In addition to tamarind, Basson adds baked quinces, introducing another layer of sweet-sour depth that balances the dish. If you can’t find quince, substitute Granny Smith apples or pears. He prepared this version as a guest chef at Café Asif, for the “House Pot” lunch series.
Ingredients
2 quinces
2 large eggplants, sliced into 5mm (¼-inch) rounds
3 medium-sized tomatoes, sliced into 1cm (½-inch) rounds
2 onions, peeled and sliced into 1cm (½-inch) rounds
½ cup olive oil
1 kg (2.2lbs) boneless beef short ribs, cut into 4cm (1½-inch) cubes
1 onion, peeled and cut into medium-sized cubes
1 tablespoon whole allspice berries
½ tablespoon ground black pepper
Pinch of cinnamon
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
1½ tablespoon coarse salt
1½ cups (400 grams) crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
2 tablespoons date molasses
2 cups (500ml) vegetable stock
To serve:
Steamed white rice
Preparation
- Prepare the meat: Heat a wide pot over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil, then sear the beef until golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove the meat and set aside.
- In the same pot, add the diced onion, allspice, black pepper, thyme, cinnamon, and ½ tablespoon salt. Sauté over medium heat for 7 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Add the crushed tomatoes, tamarind paste, and date molasses. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
- Return the beef to the pot, add the vegetable stock, and bring to a boil. Taste and adjust the seasoning to balance saltiness, sweetness, and acidity.
- Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook until the meat is completely tender, about 2 hours. Meanwhile, prepare the quince (If using apples or pears, skip the baking part of this step): Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Wrap the quince in foil and bake until softened, about 1 hour. Peel, core, and slice fruit into 5mm (0.2-inch) thick slices.
- Place the quince, tomatoes, and onion slices on a baking tray. Season with 3 tablespoons of olive oil and ½ tablespoon of salt, mix well, and bake for 25 minutes.
- Prepare the eggplants: Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Sprinkle the eggplant slices with ½ tablespoon coarse salt and brush both sides with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place them on a parchment-lined baking tray and bake until browned and softened, about 30 minutes.
- Assemble the dish: Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Pour a little of the cooking liquid from the meat into a baking dish. Arrange an even layer of eggplant slices on the bottom, placing a spoonful of meat and sauce on each. Top with a slice of quince, then add layers of the roasted eggplant, quince, onion, and tomato. Pour over the remaining sauce from the meat pot. Cover tightly with parchment paper and aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Serve hot with steamed white rice.
