This recipe is part of Asif’s Open Kitchen Project where cooks who were evacuated during the war are invited to cook a dish that they miss from home. Would you like to participate? Register here.
About an hour’s drive separates Tamar Darmon’s home in Shlomi in the Western Galilee from Tiberias. But after living in a hotel in Tiberias for 8 months, the distance feels greater. To help Tiberias feel more like home, Shira Zaretsky has invited Tamar over to cook for an afternoon in her kitchen on nearby Moshav Kahal.
Tamar’s making ka’aburot, traditional Tunisian potato patties made with chicken, bread, and spices. In Tunisia, Jewish communities in different regions had different names for these patties, each reflecting local traditions. Shoshana Cohen-Levran, author of the cookbook “Ya Amna From Djerba to Israel: A Tunisian Family Kitchen”, explains”Kefta, mafrum, and ka’aburot share the same concept; some chop the onion, others mince it. Some fry the patties coated in flour and egg, while others slice the potatoes differently. Tripolitanians use ground beef and chicken, adding their own twist. These are all minor variations of the same dish, which was also influenced by Libyan cuisine.”
She adds that the origin of the dishes can be traced through their names, as Jewish communities were scattered throughout Tunisia and maintained their traditions within relatively closed communities. Ka’abura and machshi (another type of meatball) originated from the capital city of Tunis and kefta from the island of Djerba, while boulettes, the French word for meatballs, was used by wealthy Jews, and mafrum originated in neighboring Tripoli. It’s not only the name that changes by region, but the preparation.
This is Tamar’s recipe for ka’aburot. Instead of potato slices, you can substitute thinly sliced eggplants and add 1 tablespoon of chicken bouillon powder to the mixture. “It’s not traditionally made with eggplants,” she explains, “but it’s a little twist I came up with and the kids love it.”
4 large waxy potatoes, peeled
3 large onions, peeled
1 starchy potato, peeled
2 tablespoons salt
3 thick slices of challah, crust removed, soaked in water, drained, and crumbled
6-7 garlic cloves, mined
½ bunch parsley, finely chopped
½ bunch cilantro, finely chopped
500 grams (1.1lb) ground chicken breast
2 eggs
1 tablespoon turmeric
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
For frying:
1 egg, beaten
Flour
Oil, for deep frying
- Cut the 4 large potatoes lengthwise into thin slices. These will be used to encase the patties. Place the slices in a bowl, cover with water mixed with 2 tablespoons of salt (to remove any bitterness), and let them soak until they absorb the salt, about 2 hours. The slices should be flexible but retain their firmness.
- Meanwhile, using a food processor (or a meat grinder), coarsely grind the onion and small potatoes. Using your hands, squeeze out all the liquids well, then transfer to a large bowl.
- Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
- Wash the soaked potato slices under running water and drain.
- Using your hands, divide the meat mixture into 12 equal portions and form each into a meatball. Tightly sandwich each meatball between two potato slices.
- Heat a deep pan with oil for deep-frying over medium-high heat. Place the flour and beaten egg in two shallow bowls.
- Coat each wrapped meatball in flour, ensuring it is fully covered, and then dip it into the beaten egg to coat.
- Carefully slide the patties into the hot oil and fry until they are golden brown on all sides, just a few moments. Serve the patties on their own or with couscous.
