A member of an old merchant family from Sana’a, Yemen, Eliezer (Ezer) Havshush immigrated to Palestine in 1926. By 1931, he had opened a business selling oils, vinegars, and spices in the port of Jaffa. After the business’s warehouses burned down in 1947, Havshush relocated the store to Kerem HaTeimanim neighborhood in Tel Aviv before settling in Levinsky Market, which at the time served Greek sailors living in the area.

Havshush established his home above the small shop at 18 Ha-Khalutzim Street, where his children, including his son Aryeh, were born and raised. Aryeh later took over the business, managing it until his death in 2024. Today, Aryeh’s sons run the spice shop, which has become a cornerstone of Israeli cuisine and a hub for chefs and cooks seeking local flavors. For years, they have made pilgrimages to Havshush to learn from the brothers’ extensive knowledge of spices and pick up housemade spice blends. Among the notable blends available are Ras-el-Havshush (a spice mix for meat and fish), soup Hawaij spice mix, a mixture for arayes (meat-stuffed pita), a local herb blend, various types of paprika, and more.

Photo by: Noam Preisman

“The quality and freshness of the spices, the selection, the professionalism, and the balance between tradition and innovation make this place a crossroads for anyone passionate about food culture,” says chef Yahaloma Levi. “As a young chef, I discovered a treasure trove here: a place where professional expertise meets the preservation of culinary traditions and innovation with intriguing raw ingredients. These ingredients become dishes that shape our food culture. You’ll always receive guidance on how to use them, making Havshush a true mentor to me.”