“To define this under the radar place hidden in one of the alleys of the Netanya market as a Tripolitan workers restaurant would be absolutely correct, but it would also miss the point. This is the country’s temple of Tripolitan food — a pilgrimage center for connoisseurs, and anyone who has eaten here at least once,” says Oren Assif.

Kerosene burners and high quality ingredients. photo by: Noam Preisman

Moshe (Momi) Naftali is the second generation owner of the restaurant his parents Carmel and Aliza founded in 1985. Here, he produces amazingly delicious dishes in his small kitchen with kerosene burners using high quality ingredients that you might find in a chef’s restaurant — a stark contrast to what you typically find in a workers restaurant in Israel. For example, he prepares his mafrum using entrecote and as few other flavor distractors as possible, and makes his chraimeh with fresh saltwater fish. The adherence to traditional and long cooking processes make the dishes sing. For those excited about offal, order the masran: intestines stuffed with veal sweetbreads, head meat, and beef heart, served with kouklas (semolina dumplings).
Be sure to arrive early to ensure you get the dish you’re looking for. The restaurant’s devoted clientele often picks up food to go on Fridays.

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