“Humble, quiet, restrained, without big pretensions, but with a lot of soul and thought into its food — Mansura conjures Israeli memories while crafting new ones,” says Nurit Poran.

Chefs Elad Dagan and Tal Suhami, both raised on Kibbutz Mishmar Hanegev in the northern Negev, draw on inspiration from their upbringing for Mansura. Established in 1946 on the lands of Bir Mansura, the kibbutz was founded by immigrants from Eastern Europe. When they opened in an industrial area on the edge of south Tel Aviv and the revived Noga neighborhood in Jaffa, they named their restaurant after the land their kibbutz sits on.

The restaurant features an Eastern European kibbutz buffet, that’s been revitalized and reinvented. The menu includes modern twists such as pletzlach (sweet Polish rolls with poppy seeds and onions) served alongside sumac butter (collected in the hills of Jerusalem and dried on site), chicken liver mousse, roasted chicken with potatoes and chicken jus, lamb belly with local citron grappa served with kasha, and beef tongue terrine served with pickled radish and grated horseradish. To pair with the menu, there are cocktails like one made with beets and another inspired by compote that’s prepared with quince.

chicken liver mousse. Photo by: Noam Preisman

While Eastern European fare takes center stage, Mansura also offers excellent Mediterranean fish and vegetable dishes. “From Mansura’s open kitchen — which is adept at blending French techniques, Eastern European home cooking, and contemporary Israeli flavors — emerges exceptional and robust dishes. Minimalist seasoning with salt, pepper, and olive oil allows the raw ingredients to shine: lemony crab spaghettini, saltwater fish tartare on a cold prickly pear soup, or pumpkin risotto. For me, Mansura is a reliable investment: local cuisine tailored to the body, mind, and season,” concludes Poran.