Chef Omar Elwan, who made a name for himself at Alei Gefen in Haifa, has emerged as one of the most prominent Arab chefs in Israel. At his new restaurant Mijana in Wadi Ara, he skillfully blends Palestinian and Italian cuisines, showcasing both traditional dishes and more modern interpretations like freekeh arancini, mallow risotto, and Gujarat, which are fried dough dumplings that he makes with pasta dough and serves with a sage butter sauce. The blending of these two cuisines is a common occurrence in Israel as many young Arab chefs study cooking in Italy and both cuisines rely heavily on seasonal produce and carbs.

Special hummus, Photo: Noam Preisman

“Amidst Wadi Ara’s predominantly skewer and hummus-centric restaurants, Mijana stands several levels above,” remarks Muzna Bishara. “Elwan, a culinary genius in my eyes, adeptly transforms traditional, homemade Palestinian dishes into haute cuisine, creating beautiful and complex renditions. My favorite dishes at Mijana include the fattoush salad with tangy labneh, freekeh tabbouleh, and Aleppo kebab. In the dessert section, I adore halawet el jibn or semolina dough filled with ushta (homemade local kaymak) that’s delicately scented with orange blossom water and served with a sesame tuile and pistachios. And umm ali, an Egyptian dessert made by repurposing leftover bread, is elevated to a gourmet level at Mijana with pieces of buttery puff pastry soaked in spiced ushta.”