This recipe is part of Asif’s Open Kitchen Project where cooks who were evacuated during the war are invited to a home in Tel Aviv to cook a dish that they miss from their own home. Would you like to participate in the project? Register here.
“Every day in Kiryat Shmona, I’m in the kitchen,” says Pirchiya Sabbag (65), who was evacuated from the northern city a few months ago due to the war. “I have a son who lives with us, and I make his meals daily. On the weekends, everyone gathers at our place for a meal. Even when I stay at my daughter’s house, I bring homemade dishes every Friday, and, of course, it’s something different each time,” she adds with a wink.
“I love experimenting with various dishes. Moroccan fish is a staple for me, as are rice and a variety of soups — vegetable soup, pea soup, chicken neck and bean soup,” she shares. Her family particularly misses her fish, overnight Moroccan Shabbat stew, and the homemade pizza she makes every Saturday evening. “I truly miss home, the cooking, and gathering with my children on Fridays. I miss the post-meal moments just as much — sitting together, laughing, reminiscing, and sharing stories,” Pirchiya says.
A mother of four with three grandchildren, including 9-year-old twin granddaughters staying with her at the Tel Aviv hotel, Pirchiya has found camaraderie with Aliza Zwigi, her former colleague from their days as assistants at a kindergarten. “We have a common language; we laugh all day long,” Pirchiya shares just before teasing Aliza that “this is not the way to prepare matbucha” and “that is not the way to season the fish.” Aliza playfully engages in the banter, and they both burst into laughter.
In Hanit Ohayon-Hadad’s Tel Aviv kitchen, the two quickly adopt the roles of hosts. Shortly after meeting, Pirchiya already treats Hanit like a close family member, immediately insisting that she call her husband and children to taste her cooking. Pirchiya’s chosen dish for the day is fish patties. “Everyone loves my fish patties. My friends at the hotel and my family all asked me to make them,” she says. “It’s home-cooked food that really reminds us of home. I really missed these patties,” she adds as she tastes the dish and adjusts the seasoning.
“I’m fortunate my husband isn’t here; he’d say I’m cutting corners,” she chuckles while blending oil and paprika in a disposable cup. “He pours an entire bottle of oil into a pan, warms it up, turns it off, then adds 2 tablespoons of paprika. It’s great for everything.” She swiftly packs the dish for the hotel dinner. Just before leaving, she ensures her hostess gets a taste of each dish.
For the patties:
½ kg (1 lb) Nile perch fillets (or hake, tilapia, tuna, or a combination)
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ bunch cilantro
Cloves from ½ garlic head, crushed
½ small potato, peeled and grated
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon cumin
1¾ tablespoons (25 ml) neutral oil
For the sauce:
¼ cup (60 ml) neutral oil
½ tablespoon paprika
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
1 sweet shushka (long, sweet red) pepper, roughly chopped
½ hot green chili pepper, coarsely chopped
¾ teaspoon black pepper
¾ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup (240 ml) water or chicken stock
130 grams (4½ oz) tomato paste
- Prepare the patties: Place the fish in a bowl, add the lemon juice, and let soak for 5 minutes. Wash the fish in cold water and pat dry.
- Pass the fish through a meat grinder along with the cilantro. Alternatively, pulse the fish and cilantro in a food processor until it’s well chopped and no large chunks remain.
- Transfer to a bowl, add the remaining ingredients, and knead with your hands for 5 minutes. Divide the mixture into patties the size of ping-pong balls.
- Prepare the sauce: Mix the oil with paprika. Pour into a sauté pan and add the garlic, red, and green peppers. Cover and cook for 10 minutes over medium-low heat.
- Add black pepper, salt, turmeric, and water or stock and mix well. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook until the sauce thickens, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Mix the tomato paste with ½ cup water (or the sauce) and add to the sauce.
- Arrange the fish patties in the sauce in an even layer, cover, and gently simmer for 10 minutes.
- Serve hot with challah to soak up the sauce.
